Durham
Durham (, locally ) is a city in the North East of England. It is within the County Durham local government district, and is the county town of the larger ceremonial county.
Durham is well known for its Norman Cathedral and 11th-century castle, and is home to Durham University. HM Prison Durham is also located close to the city centre.
Name
and the Newcastle University]] The name "Durham" comes from the Old English "dun", meaning hill, and the Old Norse "holme", which translates to island.Surtees, R. (1816) History and Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham (Classical County Histories) The Lord Bishop of Durham takes a Latin variation of the city's name in his apostolic signature, which is signed "N. Dunelm." Some attribute the city's name to the legend of the Dun Cow and the milkmaid who in legend guided the monks of Lindisfarne carrying the body of Saint Cuthbert to the site of the present city in 995 AD.{{Cite book |last=Liddy |first=Christian D |title= The Bishopric of Durham in the Late Middle Ages: Lordship, Community and the Cult of St. Cuthbert |year= 2008 |publisher= Boydell Press |isbn= 9781843833772 |page= |pages= |postscript= }} Dun Cow Lane is said to be one of the first streets in Durham, being directly to the east of Durham Cathedral and taking its name from a depiction of the city's founding etched in masonry on the south side of the cathedral. The city has been known by a number of names throughout history. The original Nordic Dun Holm was changed to Duresme by the Normans and was known in Latin as Dunelm. The modern form Durham came into use later in the city's history. The north eastern historian, Robert Surtees chronicled the name changes in his History and Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham but states that it is an "impossibility" to tell when the city's modern name came into being.History
Early history
Archeological evidence suggests a history of settlement in the area since roughly 2000 BC. The present city can clearly be traced back to AD 995, when a group of monks from Lindisfarne chose the strategic high peninsula as a place to settle with the body of Saint Cuthbert, that had previously lain in Chester-le-Street, founding a church there.Legend of the Dun Cow and city origins
Local legend states that the city was founded in A.D. 995 by divine intervention. The 12th-century chronicler, Symeon of Durham, recounts that after wandering in the north, Saint Cuthbert’s bier miraculously came to a halt at the hill of Warden Law and, despite the effort of the congregation, would not move.Symeon of Durham, Libellus de exordio atque procurso istius, hoc est Dunhelmensis (Tract on the origins and progress of this the church of Durham) Aldhun, Bishop of Chester-le-Street and leader of the order, decreed a holy fast of three days, accompanied by prayers to the saint.Bede, The Ecclesiastical History of the English People Saint Bede recounts that during this fast, Saint Cuthbert appeared to the monk Eadmer with instructions that the coffin should be taken to Dun Holm. After Eadmer’s revelation, Aldhun found that he was able to move the bier, but did not know where Dun Holm was. By chance later that day, the monks came across a milkmaid at Mount Joy (southeast of present-day Durham). She stated that she was seeking her lost dun cow, which she had last seen at Dun Holm. The monks, realising that this was a sign from the saint, followed her. They settled at a "wooded hill-island formed by a tight gorge-like meander of the River Wear." After arriving at their destination, they erected the vestiges of Durham Cathedral, which was a "modest building." Symeon states that this was the first building in the city and, unfortunately, does not remain today having been supplanted by the Norman structure.Medieval history
During the medieval period the city found spiritual prominence because it was the final resting place of Saint Cuthbert and Saint Bede the Venerable. Before the Reformation the shrine of Saint Cuthbert, situated behind the High Altar of Durham Cathedral, was the most important religious site in England until the martyrdom of St Thomas Becket at Canterbury. Saint Cuthbert was famed for two reasons: Firstly, the miraculous healing powers he had displayed in life extended into death with many stories of those visiting the saint’s shrine being cured of all manner of diseases. This led to him being known as the "wonder worker of England". Secondly, after the first translation of his relics in 698 AD, his body was found to be incorruptible.The Missal Romanum Despite a brief translation back to Holy Island during the Norman InvasionThe Lives of the Saints as contained in the "New English Missal" the saint's relics remain enshrined to the present day.Durham Cathedral Illustrated Guide (available from the Cathedral Bookshop) Saint Bede's bones are also entombed in the cathedral, drawing the mediaeval pilgrim to the city. Durham’s geographical position has always given it an important position in the defence of England against the Scots.{{Cite book |last=Richardson |first= Michael |title=Durham City: Past & Present |year= 2007 |publisher= Breedon Books Publishing Co Ltd |isbn= 9781859835814 |page= |pages= |postscript= }} The city has played an important part in the defence of the north and Durham Castle is the only Norman castle keep never to have suffered a breach.Brown, Nicholas (1931) Durham Castle The Battle of Neville's Cross which took place near the city on 17 October 1346 between the English and Scots is the most famous battle of the age. The city suffered from a number of plague outbreaks in 1544, 1589 and 1598.Prince Bishops
Owing to divine providence of the city’s founding, the Bishop of Durham has always enjoyed the title “Bishop by Divine Providence”The Forms of Precidents of the Catholic Church as contained in the Catholic Encyclopaedia (1919) opposed to all other bishops who are “Bishop by Divine Right”. However, as the north east was so far from Westminster the bishops of Durham enjoyed extraordinary powers such as the ability to hold their own parliament, raise their own armies, appoint their own sheriffs and Justices, administer their own laws, levy taxes and customs duties, create fairs and markets, issue charters, salvage shipwrecks, collect revenue from mines, administer the forests and mint their own coins. So far reaching were the bishop’s powers that the steward of Bishop Anthony Bek commented in 1299 AD: “There are two kings in England, namely the Lord King of England, wearing a crown in sign of his regality and the Lord Bishop of Durham wearing a mitre in place of a crown, in sign of his regality in the diocese of Durham”As stated in Liddy, Christian D. (2008) The Bishopric of Durham in the Late Middle Ages: Lordship, Community and the Cult of St. Cuthbert. The attribution of the quote is questionable see County Palatine, however, the editor of this article is almost certain it is attributable to Anthony Bek's steward. All this activity was administrated from the castle and buildings surrounding the Palace Green. Many of the original buildings associated with these functions of the County Palatine are still to be found on the peninsular. Every Bishop of Durham from 1071 to 1836 was a Prince Bishop except for the first Norman-appointed Bishop Walcher who was styled an Earl-Bishop. Although the term prince bishop has been used as a helpful tool in the understanding the functions of the Bishops of Durham it is not a title they would have recognised. The last Prince Bishop of Durham Bishop William Van Mildert credited with the foundation of Durham University. Henry VIII curtailed some of the Prince-Bishop's powers and, in 1538, ordered the destruction of the shrine of Saint Cuthbert.Legal System
The Prince Bishops also had their own court system, most notably the Durham Court of Chancery.http://hansard.millbanksystems.com/lords/1836/jun/10/bishopric-of-durham The county also had its own attorney general, whose authority to bring an indictment for criminal matters was tested by central government in the infamous case of Rex v. Mary Ann Cotton (1832).Whiehead, Alan Mary Ann Cotton: Dead but not forgotten (Durham Records Office: 2004) The courts and judicial posts for the county were curtailed by the Law Terms Act 1830 and finally abolished by the Supreme Court of Judicature Act 1873.Civil War and Commonwealth (1640 to 1660)
The city remained loyal to King Charles I throughout the English Civil War. Charles I came to Durham two times during his reign. Firstly, he came to the cathedral for a majestic service in which he was entertained by the Chapter and Bishop at great expense at the start of his reign. His second visitation to the city came towards the end of the Civil War, escaping from the city as Oliver Cromwell’s forces got closer.(1798) Noble, Mark: The Lives of the English Regicides: And Other Commissioners of the Pretended High Court of Justice, Appointed to Sit in Judgment Upon Their Sovereign, King Charles the First Local legendThe Society of Charles the King and Martyr: Newsletter (12) stated he escaped down the The Bailey and through Old Elvet. Another local legend has it that Cromwell stayed in a room in the present Royal County Hotel on Old Elvet during the Civil War. The room is reputed to be haunted by his ghost.{{Cite book |last=Deary | first=Terry | title=Deadly Durham | authorlink=Terry Deary | publisher=County Durham Books | year=2001 | isbn=978-1897585641 |postscript=}} Durham suffered greatly during the Civil War and Commonwealth. This was not due to direct assault by Cromwell but the abolition of the Church of England and the closure of religious institutions pertaining to it. The city has always relied upon the Dean and Chapter and cathedral as an economic force. The castle suffered considerable damage and dilapidation during the Commonwealth due to the abolition of the office of bishop whose residence it was. Cromwell confiscated the castle and sold it to the Mayor of London shortly after taking it from the bishop. A similar fate befell the Cathedral, it being closed in 1650 and used to incarcerate 3,000 Scottish prisoners. Graffiti left by them can still be seen today etched into the interior stone.Durham Cathedral Guidebook (available from the Cathedral) At the Restoration in 1660, John Cosin (a former Canon) was appointed bishop and set about a major restoration project. This included the commissioning of the famous elaborate woodwork in the cathedral choir, the font cover, and the Black Staircase in the castle.http://www.durham.ac.uk (see University College homepage) Other renovations were carried out to both the city and cathedral by his successor Bishop Lord Nathaniel Crewe.Eighteenth century
photographed from the south, 2009]] In 1720 it was proposed that Durham could become a sea port by digging a canal north to join the River Team, a tributary of the River Tyne near Gateshead. Nothing came of the plan, but the statue of Neptune in the Market Place was a constant reminder of Durham's maritime possibilities. The thought of ships docking at the Sands or Millburngate remained fresh in the minds of Durham businessmen. In 1759, a new proposal hoped to make the Wear navigable from Durham to Sunderland by altering the river's course, but the increasing size of ships made this impractical. This was further compounded by the fact Newcastle upon Tyne had grown as the north east's main port and centre for shipping.Blake, D. (1998) The North East The eighteenth century also saw the rise of the trade union movement in the city.Nineteenth century
The Great Reform Act, 1832 saw the removal of the Prince Bishop’s powers,The Great Reform Act, 1832 although he still has the right to a seat in the House of LordsThe Representation of the People Act 2000 and is regarded as the third most senior bishop in the Church of England.The Canons of the Church of England The Court of Claims of 1953 granted the traditional right of the bishop to accompany the sovereign at the coronation,The Proceedings of the Court of Claims at the Coronation of Her Majesty Elizabeth II reflecting his seniority. The first census, conducted in 1801,The Census states that Durham City had a population of 7,100. The Industrial Revolution mostly passed the city by. However, the city was well-known for carpet making and weaving. Although most of the mediaeval weavers who thrived in the city had left by the nineteenth century, the city was the home of Hugh MacKay Carpets’ factory, which produced the famous brands of axminster and tufted carpets until the factory was forced into administration in April 2005.The Proceedings of the High Court of Justice 1995 Other important industries were the manufacture of mustard and coal extraction. The Industrial Revolution also placed the city at the heart of the coal fields,Nixon, P: A Portrait of Durham the county’s main industry until the 1970s. Practically every village around the city boasted a coal mine and, although these have since disappeared as part of the regional decline in heavy industry, the proud traditions, heritage and community spirit are still evident. The city also saw the creation of the world’s first passenger railway in 1825.Frith, Francis: Durham: A Miscellany (Did You Know?) The nineteenth century also saw the founding of Durham UniversityThe Durham University Act, 1882 and the Royal Charter for the Founding of the University of Durham thanks to the benevolence of Bishop William Van Mildert and the Chapter in 1832. Durham Castle became the first college ( University College, Durham) and the Bishop moved to Auckland Castle as his only residence in the county. The first Durham Miners' Gala was held in 1871 and remains the largest socialist trade union event in the world.Geography
General geography
Durham is situated to the south west of Sunderland, England. The River Wear flows north through the city, making an incised meander which encloses the centre on three sides to form Durham's peninsula. At the base of the peninsula is the Market Place, which still hosts regular markets; a permanent indoor market is also situated just off the Market Place. The Market Place and surrounding streets are one of the main commercial and shopping areas of the city. From the Market Place, The Bailey leads south past Palace Green; The Bailey is almost entirely owned and occupied by the university and the cathedral. Durham is a hilly city, claiming to be built upon the symbolic seven hills. Upon the most central and prominent position high above the Wear, the cathedral dominates the skyline. The steep riverbanks are densely wooded, adding to the picturesque beauty of the city. West of the city centre, another river, the River Browney, drains south to join the Wear to the south of the city. The county town of County Durham, until 2009 Durham was located in the City of Durham local government district, which extended beyond the city, and had a total population of 87,656 in 2001, covering 186.68 square kilometres in 2007. In 2001, the unparished area of Durham had a population of 29,091, whilst the built-up area of Durham had a population of 42,939. There are three old roads out of the Market Place: Saddler Street heads south-east, towards Elvet Bridge, The Bailey and Prebends Bridge. Elvet Bridge leads to the Elvet area of the city, Durham Prison and the South; Prebends Bridge is smaller and provides access from The Bailey to South Durham. Heading west, Silver Street leads out of the Market Place towards Framwellgate Bridge and North Road, the other main shopping area of the city. From here, the city spreads out into the Framwelgate, Crossgate, Neville's Cross and viaduct districts, the other main shopping area of the city. Beyond the viaduct lie the outlying districts of Framwellgate Moor and Neville's Cross. Heading north from the Market Place leads to Claypath. The road curves back round to the east and beyond it lie Gilesgate, Gilesgate Moor and Dragonville. Many of the inner city areas are now inhabited by students living in shared houses. In some roads as many as 70% of the dwellings are occupied by students.Historical geography
The historical city centre of Durham has changed little over the past 200 years. It is made up of the peninsula containing the cathedral, palace green, former administrative buildings for the palatine and Durham Castle. This was a strategic defensive decision by the city's founders and gives the cathedral a striking position. So much so that Symeon of Durham stated: "To see Durham is to see the English Sion and by doing so one may save oneself a trip to Jerusalem" Sir Walter Scott was so inspired by the view of the cathedral from South Street that he wrote "Harold the Dauntless", a poem about Saxons and Vikings set in County Durham and published on 30 January 1817. The following lines from the poem are carved into a stone tablet on Prebends Bridge: The old commercial section of the city encompasses the peninsula on three sides, following the River Wear. The peninsula was historically surrounded by the castle wall extending from the castle keep and broken by two gatehouses to the north and west of the enclosure. After extensive remodelling and "much beautification" by the Victorians the walls were removed with the exception of the gatehouse which is still standing on The Bailey. The medieval city was made up of the cathedral, castle and administrative buildings on the peninsula. The outlying areas were known as the townships and owned by the bishop, the most famous of these being Gilesgate (which still contains the mediaeval St Giles Church), Claypath and Elvet. The outlying commercial section of the city, especially around the North Road area, saw much change in the 1960s during a redevelopment spearheaded by Durham City Council, however, much of the original mediaeval street plan remains intact in the area close to the cathedral and market place. Most of the mediaeval buildings in the commercial area of the city have disappeared apart from the House of Correction and the Chapel of Saint Andrew, both under Elvet Bridge. Georgian buildings can still be found on the Bailey and Old Elvet most of which make up the colleges of Durham University.Climate
The table below gives the average temperature and rainfall figures taken between 1971 and 2000 at the Met Office weather station in Durham: Like the rest of the United Kingdom, Durham has a temperate climate. At Durham 1971-2000 averages, Met Office. Retrieved on 2007-08-20. the average annual rainfall is lower than the national average of . UK 1971-2000 averages, Met Office. Retrieved on 2007-08-20. Equally there are only around 121.3 days where more than of rain falls compared with a national average of 154.4 days. The area sees on average 1374.6 hours of sunshine per year, compared with a national average of 1125.0 hours. There is an air frost on 52 days compared with a national average of 55.6 days. Average daily maximum and minimum temperatures are and compared with a national averages of and respectively.Governance
The ancient borough covering Durham was Durham and Framwelgate and it was reformed by the Municipal Corporations Act 1835. In 1974 it was merged with Durham Rural District and Brandon and Byshottles Urban District to form the City of Durham district of County Durham. The district was abolished in 2009 with its responsibilities assumed by Durham County Council, a unitary authority. Since April 2009 city status has been held by charter trustees for the area of the former district. Durham's MP is Roberta Blackman-Woods ( Labour).Economy
This is a table of trend of regional gross value added of County Durham at current basic prices published (pp. 240–253) by Office for National Statistics with figures in millions of British Pounds Sterling.Landmarks
The whole of the centre of Durham is designated a conservation area. The conservation area was first designated on 9 August 1968, and was extended on 25 November 1980. Conservation areas In addition to the Cathedral and Castle, Durham contains over 630 listed buildings, City of Durham - Local Plan 569 of which are located within the city centre conservation area. Particularly notable properties include:Grade I listed
- Chorister School
- Crook Hall
- Durham Castle
- Durham Cathedral
- Elvet Bridge
- Framwellgate Bridge
- Kepier Hospital
- Kingsgate Bridge
- Prebends Bridge
- St Giles Church, Gilesgate
- Church of St Margaret of Antioch, Crossgate
- Church of St Mary-le-Bow (now Durham Heritage Centre)
- St. John's College Chapel, formerly the Church of St Mary the Less
Grade II* listed
- Aykley Heads House (now Bistro 21)
- Bishop Cosin's Hall, Palace Green
- Cosin's Library (now part of University Library, Palace Green)
- Crown Court, Old Elvet
- St Cuthbert's Society, 12 South Bailey
- St John's College, 3 South Bailey
- St Oswald's Church
- Railway viaduct, North Road
- Town Hall and Guildhall, Market Place
Grade II listed
- Durham Observatory
- The Chapel of the College of St Hild and St Bede