Moisturizers or emollients are complex mixtures of chemical agents (often occlusives help hold water in the skin after application, humectants attract moisture and emollients help smooth the skin.) specially designed to make the external layers of the skin ( epidermis) softer and more pliable. They increase the skin's hydration ( water content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc., may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.
By indicationMoisturizers prevent and treat dry skin, protected sensitive skin, improve skin tone and texture, and mask imperfections. Mayo Clinic: Moisturizers: Options for softer skin December 16, 2010 Moisturizers are also used in the aftercare of recently tatooed/inked skin and skin piercings.https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/oct/21/sali-hughes-moisturisers-for-tattooed-skin
Preservation of normal skinMoisturizers can be used to prevent the skin from becoming too dry or oily, such as with light, non-greasy water-based moisturizers. Such moisturizers often contain lightweight oils, such as cetyl alcohol, or silicone-derived ingredients, such as cyclomethicone.
Dry skinFor treating skin dryness, the most appropriate moisturizers are heavier, oil-based moisturizers that contain ingredients such as antioxidants, grape seed oil or dimethicone. For very dry, cracked skin, petrolatum-based products are preferable, as they are longer-lasting than creams and are more effective in preventing water evaporation.
Oily skinFor oily skin, moisturizers can still be useful after activities causing skin dryness, such as other skin care products and washing. For oily skin, water-based moisturizers that are specifically non-comedogenic are preferable, as there is less risk of comedo formation.
Aging skinAppropriate moisturizers to keep aging skin soft and well hydrated are oil-based ones that contain petrolatum as the base, along with antioxidants or alpha hydroxy acids against wrinkles.
Sensitive skinOn sensitive skin (which otherwise is susceptible to skin irritations, redness, itching or rashes), it is preferable to use moisturizers which contain soothing ingredients such as chamomile or aloe, and that minimize potential allergens such as fragrances or dyes, as well as irritants such as acids.
EczemaIn eczema it is generally best to match thicker ointments to the driest, flakiest skin. Light emollients for example aqueous cream may not have any effect on severely dry skin. Some common emollients for the relief of eczema include Oilatum, Balneum, Medi Oil, Diprobase, bath oils and aqueous cream. Sebexol, Epaderm ointment, Exederm, and Eucerin lotion or cream may also be helpful with itching. Lotions or creams may be applied directly to the skin after bathing to lock in moisture. Moisturizing gloves (gloves which keep emollients in contact with skin on the hands) can be worn while sleeping. Generally, twice-daily applications of emollients work best. While creams are easy to apply, they are quickly absorbed into the skin, and therefore need frequent reapplication. Ointments, with less water content, stay on the skin for longer and need fewer applications, but they can be greasy and inconvenient. Recently, ceramides, which are the major lipid constituent of the stratum corneum, have been used in the treatment of eczema. They are often one of the ingredients of modern moisturizers. These lipids were also successfully produced synthetically in the laboratory. A randomized control trial in infants found that subjects with atopic dermatitis that were treated with emollients (e.g., Eucerin, Cetaphil, Nutraderm) had significantly decreased requirements for topical steroids compared with a control group who were not treated with them. Emollients are best applied immediately after bathing when the skin is well hydrated.
Mechanisms of action
- Occlusives: These work by forming a thin film on the surface of the skin to prevent loss of moisture.
- Humectants: These attract water vapor from the air to moisturize the skin.
- Restoration of deficient materials: These are more complex and try to restore natural moisturizing factors on the skin, such as amino-lipids.
- antipruritic action (anti-itching): down regulate cytokines and cooling effect from evaporation of water for water-based moisturizer.
- antimitotic ( mitoic inhibitor) : Slow the process of mitosis (cell dividsion)on the epidermis by mineral oil, which could be helpful for people who have psoriasis disease.
- UV protection: moisturizers also contain sunscreen which will protect your skin from UV light.
- inhibit proinflammatory prostanoids production: blocking cyclooxygenase activity which causes soothing and lower skin inflammation.
- wound healing : hyaluronic acid, Antimicrobial effect by act against microbe surface
Risks of moisturizerTwo factors have to be considered when assessing the safety of a moisturizer:
- The safety of the ingredients it contains
- The risk of bacterial contamination